The Western Flyer, the historic wooden boat novelist John Steinbeck and marine biologist Ed Ricketts took to the Sea of Cortez in 1940, is currently docked at the Moss Landing Harbor.
The boat is a feature of Seas the Summer from the Western Flyer Foundation. For the remaining weekends in August and the first weekend in September, the program brings people together at the Moss Landing waterfront through a collaborative mix of art, science and tours.
KAZU’s Erika Mahoney toured the vessel with Kaitlyn Ponce, the community outreach coordinator of the Western Flyer Foundation, a local, non-profit organization.
Kaitlyn Ponce (KP): We get to serve our community by running education programs and community outreach efforts. Our education programs expand from dock programs to taking students out at sea.
There’s a rustic charm to the boat and a sense of history everywhere you look. It was restored about three years ago in Port Townsend, Washington.
KP: So it sunk not once, not twice, but two and a half times. And we like to say, “the third time is not the charm here.” But it sunk, and in 2015 it was brought back up. At that time, it was underwater for around six months, and it looked pretty ghostly. It took several years and a lot of love and a lot of money and a lot of effort to get to where it's at.
In 2023, it had its homecoming in Monterey, and so we rang that bell as we came into Old Fisherman's Wharf and got to celebrate with the community after being away for so long. (Check out KAZU’s coverage about the return in 2023.)
Original wood from the Western Flyer is incorporated throughout the boat, including an inlaid sea turtle on the back deck.
KP: This is pretty cool. So this is original “Flyer” wood. You're welcome to touch it. It's one of the favorite photo ops.
Most of the hull we’re standing on is new wood, about 90% new and 10% original. The sea turtle was crafted at Ventana Surfboards in Santa Cruz with woodburning by local artist Jessica Kendall-Bar.
Next, we make our way up towards the front of the vessel stopping in the galley, aka, the kitchen.
KP: Welcome to the galley. So this is where Steinbeck and Ricketts would've had a lot of their… probably… discussions and coffee, and that's what we get to do today. This galley still houses so much community and a lot of our meals. It's where we have most of our meetings as a team. It's a really fun space to just kind of sit in, and it's perfect for cozy, foggy days.
On the table in the center of the galley is Steinbeck's novel “The Sea of Cortez: a leisurely journal of travel and research.” It details Steinbeck and Rickett’s six week voyage to the Sea of Cortez, which is located between Mexico’s mainland and the Baja California peninsula. Steinbeck went because he was desperate for an escape following intense public scrutiny of his 1939 novel Grapes of Wrath.
Finally, Kaitlyn and I venture up to the helm, where a beautiful wooden ship’s wheel takes center stage.
KP: So this is where the captain steers the ship and we actually have two helms. We have one right above us, too, and that's where Captain spends most of his time 'cause it gives a little bit more of a 360 view.
Today the Western Flyer is about community, connection, and education.
Erika Mahoney: Tell me what's happening this August, and I believe the first weekend of September?
KP: So through September 6th we'll be running Saturday and Sunday our Seas the Summer program. On Saturdays we have local artists come out. We get to do fun outreach, different activities, and then on Sundays we offer free tours with open houses of the Flyer. And so you get to come and learn about the history of the boat from our docent guides, from our crew and staff, as well as checking out our local partners at Sunflower Star Laboratory and Monterey Bay Eco Tours. So it's a really fun, collaborative way to get people in the community to celebrate these different aspects that make Moss Landing, Monterey Bay so special. And so we're excited to host everyone.
Keep safety top of mind if you participate in touring the Western Flyer for Seas the Summer. Don't be shy about asking for a life vest.